Day 59 Thursday 22nd November: Handy Andes

Doug writes:-

Regular readers will know that, as a consolation for missing out on wrestling several tons of 4WD vehicle across the Andes, we treated ourselves to another slap-up meal last night; this time at JP’s all-time favourite eatery, the “La Mar” restaurant in downtown Santiago.

We had bagged one of the sought-after outside tables at opening time (8 pm) and had a brilliant vantage point  as the place filled up with the great and good of Santiago – groups of businessmen, little family groups, Philip Green-lookalikes and their secretaries – everyone was there. Now, speaking as a connoisseur of good British nursery food, I admit I wasn’t too sure about the prospect of marinated raw fish (ceviche) and other regional delicacies, but even a Philistine such as myself had to admit it was pretty special. JP played a blinder by sending for the chef to show him a phone picture of what he had for supper last year; the kitchen duly obliged by recreating the dish. Overall definitely an experience to rival the much-vaunted Maido that we went to in Lima.

Alas, this morning we suffered a dose of reality as the fine-diners and hardened road warriors were reduced to meekly hitching a ride to the airport in the hotel transfer bus, harrumphing about the lack of punctuality thereof.

At the airport, however, our mood was lifted by some good news from family Lacey – Chris had just become a grandad! The new arrival is Ellis Christian Lacey, fighting weight 7 lb 2 oz. Congrats and well done to mum Diana, dad Anthony and, of course, Pops himself as he will henceforth be known.

Left:  Winston Churchill            Middle:- Proud Grandfather          Right:-  Ellis Lacey

After some raiding of the duty-free for bubbly and cigars we bundled onto a chock-full LATAM Airbus for the short flight over the mountains to Mendoza. As the new boy to South America, I was allocated a window seat from which to admire the incredible views of the Andes.

Note to pilot:- Not a good place to have an engine failure

On arrival in Mendoza, JP was off the plane and through immigration like the proverbial greased lighting in order to be first to the Avis desk. This paid off as an increasingly irate queue formed behind. Once more we hit the road for the hour-and-a-half journey through Mendoza and Tupungato to the fabulous Finca Ambrosia. We stopped at Tupungato for groceries but found only one small shop which was not engaged in “Siesta” hence could only acquire essentials such as BEER and CRISPS.

Onwards to Finca Ambrosia, that well-known oasis of viticulture where the lovely Karen and Maureen Pat(t)erson were on hand to greet us, cork already halfway out of a bottle of Ambrosia Chardonnay..

John was then sent up to the lookout tower to make sure there were no marauding gangs of banditos on the approach

A healthy walk round the estate was enjoyed by all, after which John and Karen took themselves off to Tupungato in search of even more supper ingredients. The less public-spirited elements such as myself contented themselves with a dip in the pool – I have to point out that life is pretty tough here.

So, it’s been a quick day of planes and buses and cars; and what a great place in which to end up.

As to parting thoughts on Chile, I think we all liked it more than Peru, Ecuador or Bolivia. Maybe we are biased by the great Chileans we met such as Robert in Antofagasta and the indomitable Waldo (of roadside repair fame) but they seem a really good bunch, working hard and proud of their country. From the traveller’s perspective it is hard to fault the Chilean trunk road system and, with the possible exception of airport shuttle buses, things seem to work – it may be skinny but it’s a good place.

Tomorrow it’s back to the airport to pick up Craig and Frankie, pick up the two new rental pickups and yet another slap-up lunch, this time at the Trapiche Winery!