Day 34 Sunday 28th October: Grand Prix drive

John writes:

We said an early farewell to Hacienda Venecia and set off for the town of Buga, a similar distance to Friday’s drive which took 5.5 hours to cover the 126 miles. This time the road, at least for the first 70 miles, looked to be equally difficult but time would tell.

Requiring a refill of petrol, we took the main road up the hill climbing up to Manizales, the nearby city of 1/2 million people. Surprisingly, it proved to be one of the most spectacular roads we had been on and quickly climbed a further 2,000 feet to over 6,000 feet.  Dual carriageway, long sweeping bends, viaducts across deep ravines which all led to a garage with one of the best working views in the world!

Driving back down was even more spectacular with a very steep gradient (perhaps 1/10) for perhaps 5 miles requiring second or third gear. Even the local drivers were cautious except for young teenage boys racing down the steep roads at full tilt on their bicycles – sure death if any had crashed.

Perhaps it was because of Sunday morning but the roads were very quiet, with few trucks and although we had similar steepness and bends to the previous days this time it was dual carriageway throughout with a fantastic surface so we made quick progress.

After a quick pit stop, Paul took over for his last drive down the easy finishing straight to Buga.

The usual 2 police road blocks and for the first time Paul had to show his and the car’s papers but no issues and we were waved on. Something we’ve never seen before are Colombia’s extended trucks which can have up to 5 different wagons!

Made it to our hotel in record time – same distance but in only half the drive time of Friday and 3 hours before check in time! Hotel Guadalajara is a dated hotel with a traditional style but a warm welcome and we were quickly checked in.

Sundays are family days in Colombia so the hotel was full of Bugas (say it with a Geordie accent for full effect!) enjoying their poolside lunches so of course we joined them.

Following lunch, Chris and I retired to watch the Mexican Grand Prix. Mike and Paul expanded their cultural horizons with a visit to the local Basilica and then caught some rays at the pool.

There is Buga all else to do in Buga but stopping here avoids going into Cali and is only a short hop the airport for our flight to Quito tomorrow.

Tonight we will enjoy our final night in Colombia which has made a big impression on us. Chris, Mike and I have spent 13 days here and have enjoyed every minute of this country of contrasts:

• Security is always in your mind but, with the exception of Bogota, we have never felt exposed and have always received the most friendly of welcomes.
• In Cartagena, Bogota and Medellin we have seen 3 totally different cities and contrasted their scale with the many rural cities, towns and villages. There are big contrasts between  rich and poor, Caribbean and European and mountains and the coast line.
• The roads generally have been challenging with steep and narrow inclines, sheer drop offs of hundreds of feet, landslides, axel breaking potholes or billiard table surfaces. Driving standards have been varied from wild overtaking on blind bends to truckers signalling for others to overtake and slowing down to allow oncoming traffic onto their side of the road to negotiate the sharp bends.
• Our abiding memory will be the spectacular scenery – Costa Rica on steroids and more varied as you move through this country which is almost twice the size of France. Much less dense jungle so much clearer views allowing you to appreciate the deep ravines and sheer cliff faces which the vegetation somehow clings to. We will not forget Colombia!

Tomorrow we are off to Ecuador where Paul will leave us on Tuesday. In tomorrow’s blog he will talk about his week on the Pan American Highway.