Day 72 Wednesday 5th December: Torres Del Paine Park – no pain at all.

Chris writes:

Last night’s meal at the recommended restaurant named Isabel’s, was memorable for mostly the wrong reasons.

The Argentinian tenderloin steaks were probably the worst steaks that we have had in Argentina but both Craig and I did a good turn and fed a hungry Calafate resident who was loitering with intent outside the restaurant.

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“Lucky” the Mongrel really appreciated us delivering his steak to his pavement dining table much to the amusement of a group of four diners sat at a window table.

The wine chosen by our experts also proved to be very poor despite having a 100 points award sticker on the label.

We decided that we wouldn’t let Lucky have the dregs or lap up the sediment as that would have been far too cruel and he would probably have ended up being legless [similar to many other pooches that chase cars for an occupation in Argentina]

The highlight of meal was being joined by Maureen and Karen who had found themselves in the same town on the same evening as husbands Mike and John ( who profess that they knew nothing of these arrangements) following a traumatic six hour local bus ride from Puerto Natales as they continue their “luxury” tour of Argentina.

Following post dinner drinks at a nearby bar (that didn’t have 50% of the requested drinks) the single men elected to leave the married couples and headed on foot back to our hotel). They were soon joined by John and Mike and all retired to bed.

At this point the author would like to point out that the ladies were in a different hotel and there is no information about any comings or goings that may have occurred in the early hours of the morning.

For some, the late start this morning was still too early. There was a fuel top up for one car, a clear out of any fresh food still in the cars (Government of Chile is very strict and don’t want any Argentinian pests in their country ) and we said farewell to Calafate and rejoined National Route 40 heading for Chile and Puerto Natales which the ladies had said was a particular uninspiring destination.

The route to Chile was once again across relatively flat plains but the sight of the snow-capped Andes in the distance enticed us to keep on trucking.

IMG_4485  DSC_0784Coffee and Empanadas were taken in Hotel Esperanza where a TV blurted our the finals of the 2018 cattle round-up competition to an absent audience.  Scintillating ? Clearly not, they should show one man and his dog instead. IMG_4190  IMG_4472

Fuel was topped up, this was the last visit to a YPF fuel stop and good fuel that had served us well for over the 3,100 Kim’s that we have clicked up so far in Argentina

As we approached the customs post signifying that we were leaving Argentina we passed an amazing property which clearly some Gaucho has funded from selling Corned Beef to UK families post war.

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The border exit from Argentina took less than 15 mins, but, it wasn’t exactly busy. We have left Argentina probably for less than 24 hours and – we will be back – quickly.

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We crossed ‘no mans land’ [who owns that land?] and into Chilean territory, where entry was again quick and efficient and no sign of the detailed dog lead search we had experienced before when crossing from Bolivia just a quick check over  by the official.

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Into the Torres Del Paine Park, and Toy Boy Lois negotiated a reduced fee from $210 to $0 without having to commit to anything. We were put on Puma alert, as there estimated to be over 80 resident in this park and they are not in cages.

We headed North to chase more scenic landscapes which we found as we circumnavigated the Lago Sarmiento shore on loose road surfaces finally arriving at the Towers of Paine or Paine Horns, Paine being mountains within the Andes range and from where the park gets the name Torres Del Paine.

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With over 100kms on loose and very dusty roads we eventually completed our journey by about 17.30 pm all looking forward to a cleansing Ale to clear throats.

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Unbeknown to us Toy Boy Lois had arranged a special welcome in Puerto Natales from friends he has there that  own the local fancy dress shop.

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Tonight we dine at another ‘recommended’ restaurant, lets just hope that it is better than last night or if not there are some hungry Chilean dogs who can help out !

Tomorrow we have our last but one real drive day as we again cross from one side of South America to the other !

 

 

 

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