Mike writes:
Our last day in Bolivia got off to a bad start. The Bolivian Del Boy (aka Enrique) who we had engaged as our guide failed to turn up. Next we discovered that the car’s battery was flat as someone who shall remain nameless had left the lights on. Fortunately we were carrying a spare battery so that problem was quickly resolved.
While our technical team (Chris and Doug) sorted the battery, John went into battle (suitably attired in combat fatigues) with an old crone who took exception to us parking the Leviathan Toyota with its pyramid of spare tyres outside her house and ranted an incomprehensible stream of invective at him. Perhaps we were blocking her sunlight? Something had certainly restricted her growth.
Car duly started, Chris decided a speedy getaway was required to recharge the battery. Unfortunately he failed to spot the clapped out wreck parked behind him. In Chris’s defence it was camouflaged by a thick layer of dirt which had accumulated over the decade since it had last moved. We established conclusively by clever use of measuring sticks that there were no dents on this heap of a car which could be attributed to the Toyota. But Bolivian solidarity kicked in and the hitherto friendly armed guard stationed permanently outside the adjacent bank (reassuringly close to our parked car) rushed over and protested that the car had been in showroom condition prior to Chris’s attentions.
Insisting “no es posible” to the guard Chris and Doug set off in search of an 18” rim as currently we have more tyres than wheels which is a bit pointless. With a marathon – perhaps 9 or 10 hour drive – across semi desert with zero petrol stations tomorrow, we want to be properly prepared. Despite Uyuni being the Toyota Landcruiser capital of Bolivia, 18” rims are hard to find. After a number of fruitless visits to the usual motley collection of “llanteras” that feature in every Latin American town, the guys found Wilson who didn’t have one either. But he knows a man who knows a man and has promised a wheel by 5 o’clock.
While this was going on a mob of balloon waving infants marched on our hotel demanding “Go home you car wrecking gringos”. Or perhaps nursery school just gets out early on a Friday?
Given all the trouble we decided the safest thing to do was to high tail it to the Salar and lie low till the heat was off. Who needs a guide anyway? The Salar is a mere 10,000 square kilometres of featureless salt flat – the world’s largest. No chance of getting lost anyway as we have Waze, Maps.Me and a plethora of other navigation Apps.
And besides, we wanted to take more silly photographs using the perspective distorting effects of the salar. Quite a lot of practice and general setting up was done but the results were compromised by our dodgy eyesight and inability to stop laughing while filming.
We sneaked back into town refuelled the car and filled the roof tank.
We’d come back too soon. Chris was waylaid by the irate owner of the wreck he’d gently nudged who demanded a pay off. As she had the backing of the pistol toting guard Chris folded smiled sweetly at her and handed over about £9.
We think this means that now own the car and will have to tow it with us to Chile.
Now all we need is Wilson to come up with that wheel and we’ll be all set for tomorrow’s drive to Calama in Chile.
Our America’s Challenge Drive 