Doug writes:
My first effort at being Blogmeister; I am truly honoured and hope I can live up to the high literary standards of the core team.
Dawn at the Magicos eco-lodges and the intrepid road warriors gathered, duly impressed by Mike managing a 6.5K road run before brekky. Speaking of breakfast, this was a rather good Ecuadorian special “Samay” consumed al fresco – a sort of Spanish omelette crossed with a pancake and a wide choice of fillings; best of all no mention of guinea pigs.
We motored 40 mins back up the road to the town of Alausi, aiming to embark on today’s big treat, an out-and-back jolly on the “Nariz del Diablo” (Devil’s Nose) tourist train. On the way we passed, together with the now-familiar random assortment of livestock, rockfalls and people just parking on the carriageway, a lot of local folk in their Sunday best heading into town to celebrate a national festival, this being the equivalent of Mexico’s “Day of the Dead”. Some great fashions here.
In Alausi things were clearly gearing up for the fiesta with all manner of street food being prepped, including a splendid array of spit-roast Guinea Pig. We could only manage a couple each but they were pretty good..
After some hat shopping for Chris and I (thanks to JP for well-practised haggling resulting in about 75% off the asking price) it was all aboard the train, packed with gringo touristas but very jolly and a splendid ambience of plush upholstery and nice wood which would put to shame any British equivalent.
Fantastic views as the train chuffed its way down the valley on a track carved into the side of a mountain with splendid vistas all around. Progress was not rapid but that was hardly the point. Our party mood was slightly dampened by our guide’s casual mention that about 2500 workers died building the track in the late 1800s.
At the Devil’s Nose itself, a stumpy mountain which challenged the original track engineers, the train did it’s party piece – a three-point turn to continue down the valley; not something you see every day. Shortly thereafter the train was halted due to tourists on the line.
The turnaround stop was, to be honest, a wee bit of a tourist trap with little to offer except the cafe and the display of cultural dance – (we did not indulge) but we were impressed with Santa Rosita the Llama who later posed for photos with us.
The return leg was uneventful and we again saddled up our faithful Toyota hoping to head back to our Lodge and trek to a waterfall. However, rain having set in the attractions of a few cervezas in our hosts’ front room proved too much of a temptation, so here we sit.
Much as we love our Eco-lodges it’s clear that Building Regs are not a pressing issue here. Check out the cool electric shower heads with 110v live wires hooked up with B&Q joining blocks a couple of inches above the bather’s head..
So, assuming we survive our showers it will be offski tomorrow towards Cuenca, our last stop in Ecuador. Onwards and upwards – next stop we will be back up to 9000 ft elevation from our current valley floor at a mere 4500 ft.
Our America’s Challenge Drive 